After the planking is faired out, cut a 1/8" x 3/8" rabbet in the edge of the planking for the side panels.
Using strips of 1/8" plywood and a glue gun, make a pattern of the side panel. Cut out the panel, and test fit it on the hull. Trim it so it fit accurately in the rabbet. Scribe the deck, bow, and transom. Remove the panel and cut the rest of the panel.
Glass the inside of the panel with 4 oz. cloth and epoxy, and sand lightly before installing. Glue the panel in place with thickened epoxy. Staple through strips of 1/8" ply to hold the panel until the glue drys, then remove the staples.
- Unscrew the ama from the bench, and turn over. Cut off the frames at deck level, and fair out the sheer stringer. Cut out the inner transom so you can glass the inside of the strip planking. Scrap off any excess glue, and sand the inside of the planking. Glass the planking with 4 oz. cloth up to the top of the chine stringer.
Deck Structure
Make patterns for the second beam frames and install 4 1/8" in front of the aft frame, and behind the forward frame. The beam frames should be glassed in place to the hull
Install deck stringer and other blocking, including hatch framing.
Hatch frame
Add an extra stringer on the inboard side for attaching track for the tramps.
Shroud attachment for epoxy bonding high strength eye strap with 1/4" bolts
Fair out the deck, and install the 1/4" deck plywood. Put coat of epoxy on the underside of the deck before you install it. Install the 1/8" ply transom. Round off all the corners, and fiberglass the deck first, then the hull with 4 oz. fiberglass. Put and extra layer of tape on the keel first, and some extra layers in the bow for protection when beaching.
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