Layout the beams on a flat surface, using a long, flexible batten, and cover the lines with clear packing tape. Make the aft beam 1/2" shorter on each end than the forward beam. Use a hot glue gun to tack glue the blocks in place. I put screws into the blocks from under the bench so they can't come loose.
Double blocks at beam joint. Leave a small gap so you can saw them apart later (1/16").
Laminating the top and bottom layers to the blocks. The layers meet at the double block on the aft beam, so you don't need full length pieces. The forward beam is cut in the middle, so you can use one piece on each side.
Add blocking for the hinge and ss plates, and 1/2" square corner cleats.
Fair out the cleats and blocks so everything is flat. Scribe the 1/4" ply sides, and glue in place using narrow crown staples, or small bronze nails.
Gluing on one side.
Remove the screws from under the bench, and carefully pry the beam loose from the bench. Add the corner cleats to the other side, fair it out. Coat the inside with epoxy, and glue on the other side.
Forward beam lamination for beam cutout.
Forward beam ready for sides.
Forward beam with sides glued on. The front side of the cabin frame is shorter to allow for the cabin slope.
Top of beam is routed out, then filled with epoxy and filler, then routed to fit the hinges after glassing. The ends of the beams are beveled and filled with epoxy before glassing so there will be solid epoxy at the corner where the glass meets. Round off the corners with a 1/4"r router bit.
Glassing the beams. Glassing one side and around the corner first. Feather out the glass on the sides, then glass the other three sides at once. Trim the glass on the ends, and glass the ends of the hinge joint.
Pivoting mounts, so you can rotate the beams.
Installing the ss plates on the bottom of the beams, with the 1/8" spacer on the inboard side.
Beam hinge and ss plates.
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